Introduction
In my time as a rat owner I am slowly accumulating knowledge about the day-to-day care of my rats. Throughout the pages of this section I attempt to pass on the information I have collected and observed so that it may hopefully help other rat owners in New Zealand. Please feel free to email me about any of the content on this website.
Getting a rat
Rats make wonderful pets, but they require some planning before you go out and get some. The first things to consider are whether you are able to adequetly look after them. Rats need at least an hour out of their cages each day, preferably with you as company! The more time you spend with them, the more loving and responsive they will be. They also need cleaning regularly - this depends on the number of rats sharing a cage but will be at least once a week. First time rat owners should think about getting 2-3 rats of the same sex. Rats need company, and having another rat or two gives them some companionship in the time that you are not with them. Some people will tell you that only rats from the same litter will happily live together, but this is untrue. Most rats will happily share a cage with newcomers after an introduction period. It is not healthy to put them in the same cage straight away though as being in a enclosed space with a stranger can lead to agressive behaviour.
Choosing which rat for you
First, consider if you want male or female rats. Females are smaller (weighing 300 g on average) and softer than males. They are less cuddly and more active - wanting to run and explore rather than sit on your shoulder. Males are larger (500 g on average) and more laid back - if you want a lap rat then definitely consider boys. They do however have a distinctive smell to their fur which I personally rather like but some people find offensive. If you are not sure, the best way to choose is to visit someone with adult rats and handle them.
There are 3 ways to go about getting a rat.
- From a petstore. Generally, petstore rats are more nervy than other rats due to less handling and often careless breeding. Sometimes they will need a lot of extra attention before they settle down. With time and patience they should become loving pets. If you do buy from a petstore, take time to find out about their policies. Some petstores treat their animals well, while others treat them just as a commodity. Never buy from a petstore that houses male and female rats together. Rats are not difficult to sex (I sex my rats shortly after birth), and by 5 weeks old they can potentially mate. It is very unhealthy for a female rat to get pregnant that young, not to mention that if you buy her you will have to find homes for up to 18 baby rats a few months later.
- From a breeder. If you do want to adopt a baby rat, the best place to go is to a breeder. Good breeders will only breed healthy rats with good temperament, and will handle the babies regularly from birth to ensure they are well adjusted. Litters will not be available as readily as from a petshop, but the wait will be worthwhile. Be cautious though when choosing a breeder, as not everyone calls themselves a breeder is interested in their rats health and wellbeing. There are many 'accidental' litters, people who overbreed their rats for money, and people who breed with no knowledge of the genetics they are carrying on or proper rat care. Check the breeders policies to determine if they are good or not.
- Adopting an older rat. There are many lovely older rats that, for whatever reason, no longer have a home. Rats are sold when people move on, or simply get bored with them. Adopting from a rescue also gives you a lot more security than adopting unknown rats, as you can get trustworthy information on their peronalities and temperament, and only healthy rats are rehomed. It is immensly rewarding to care for a rat that has not previously known much love or affection. Some of my most special rats have been rescues.
When it comes to the final selection, make sure the rat is healthy. They should have no discernable lumps or bumps, have smooth shiny coats and clear eyes. Their breathing should also be clear of any wheezing/squeaking noises. The colour of the rat is not as important as temperament. Friendly rats should never bite hard enough to draw blood or cause pain, though the occasional gentle nibble can be a sign of affection. Then it is simply a matter of choosing a rat who's personality appeals to you. This might be the one who rushs out to see you, or the shy one who hides in you sleeve.